Italian ricotta cake with stawberry sauce

This ricotta cake recipe comes from Chef Paolo Labao whose cooking class I attended in September at Arte Italia in Reno. He calles it a cake, but I consider it more of a tarte. It is simple, delicately sweet and goes well at an end of a heavy meal. If you want to sample the Chef's fare for yourself, you can visit his
restaurant Farina in San Francisco.

Ricotta cake

300gr/10.5 oz OO flour

200gr/7 oz butter

1 egg

100gr/3.5 oz sugar

pinch baking powder

lemon zest from one lemon

Using two fingers, mix above ingredients together (do not over mix)

Line a spring form pan with parchment paper

Push dough into pan to form crust

320gr/11.2 oz sheep’s ricotta

120gr/4.2 oz sugar

lemon zest from one lemon

½ tsp vanilla

2 egg yolks

1 whole egg

Mix together until thoroughly blended

Pour into crust

Bake at 360º for ½ an hour

2 C sliced strawberries

1 Tbls powdered sugar

½ Tbls lemon juice

Combine all ingredients in a blender

Blend on slow then high till smooth

Strain through fine sieve strainer

To plate:

Put a couple of Tbls of sauce on plate, place a slice of cake on plate, sprinkle powdered sugar over top  

Genovese-style swordfish with truffle

Saltimbocca di Pesce Spada con Speck, Salvia al Tartufo Nero

(Swordfish wrapped with sage, truffle & speck)

Once again must thank Chef Paolo Laboa and Arte Italia for these wonderful recipes.  Often called the steak of the sea, swordfish is a versatile tasty treat and when you prepare it in this classic Italian style you can’t go wrong.  Of course you will need a great dessert, so stay tuned for a post on a delicious and light ricotta cake.

Carrots

Celery

Onion

(above all large diced approx 1 ½ C of each)

1 bay leaf

1 medium sprig sage

1 Tbls chopped garlic

2 Tbls olive oil

5-6 oz piece of veal or veal bones

2 Tbls flour

1 C white wine

In an oven safe sauce pot add carrots, celery, onion, bay leaf, sage, garlic and olive oil.

Caramelize then add a piece of veal and cook for approx 10 min on medium high heat.

Stir in flour then deglaze with white wine.

Transfer to 375º oven, cook till dark in color.

Remove from oven, add water to cover then reduce down on stove top till thick and dark in color, strain set aside.

Veal piece may be reserved and used in another dish; ravioli, pasta, soups

Truffles like these can cost hundreds of dollars an ounce,
but cans of shaved truffle can be found at much lower prices.

4 to 6 oz swordfish filets

Black truffle, shaved

Sage leaves

Salt

Thin sliced speck (similar to prosciutto but smoked and herbed)

olive oil

butter

white wine

layer on fish: truffle, sage, a little salt, wrap with speck flap on bottom

Fish pieces with truffle and sage before being wrapped in speck

Heat a large sauté pan with 2 Tbls oil, 1 Tbls butter and 3 sage leaves till butter begins to brown.

Add fish with flap side down.

Once pan is warm again, deglaze with white wine.

Cook fish to medium–it cooks fast.

Boil fingerling potatoes (quantity dependent upon amount wanted) in salted water till soft or able to pierce with a fork.

Drain, add finely chopped sage, salt (to taste), olive oil (approx ½ Tbls per 1 C potatoes) and mash lightly (do not over mash).

To plate:

scoop of potatoes on plate, lay fish on top grate truffle on top of fish, drizzle veal sauce around fish

Preparing Genovese-style Italian food

Chef Paolo Laboa and Ivano Centemeri

Once again I had the opportunity to attend a cooking demonstration at Arte Italia. Returning chef Paolo Laboa, ably aided by Reno's Ivano Centemeri, cooked and served four fabulous courses and this week I’ll share the Antipasti and Primo Piatto courses.

The mission of Arte Italia is to bring Italian art, food and culture to Reno and I feel they are succeeding. I also love the fact that all the proceeds from the classes are donated to St. Vincent’s right here in Reno.

My mother and sister attended the class with me and we enjoyed a fun night out. Chef Laboa has a restaurant in San Francisco called Farina that we hope to visit soon. If it is half as good as the dishes he prepared for us, we can’t go wrong.

Antipasti

Brandata di baccala con panissa alla savonese

Dry cod served in Savonese style fried chick pea polenta

300gr/10.5oz dry salt Cod

50gr/1.75oz white onion

1 Tbls Pinenuts

1 potato

1 bay leaf

approx. 1 C white wine

olive oil

Put a pot on the stove with water and bring to a simmer.

Rinse the salt cod in water.

Add the rinsed cod to the simmering water till softened.

In sauté pan on med high heat drizzle olive oil, add pine nuts, bay leaves, thinly sliced potato, white onion.

Once hot, deglaze with white wine, add the salt cod to the sauce pan cook low and slow 20 to 25 minutes (potato cooked till almost melted) covered.

Remove bay leaf, mix all in Quisinart until consistency of mashed potatoes, may need to add water if to dry to puree.

250gr/8.75oz chickpea flour

1 ltr water

pinch of salt

oil for frying

Bring water and salt to a boil, whisk in chickpea flour, cook 20/25 minutes medium high heat cooked to a consistency of polenta.

Swirl a little water around a bowl add cooked chickpea mixture, cover with plastic wrap place in refrigerator to cool.

Once cool, cut into “steakcut size French fries” approx. 2 ½” long ¼” thick.

Deep fry in oil, till crisp on outside and still soft inside.

Salt

To plate:

Form the Cod mixture into quenelles (football shaped) using two spoons.

Put 2 to 3 chickpea fries on a plate, place quenelle on top drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with fresh ground pepper garnish with a parsley leaf.

Primo Piatto

Testaroli della lunigina con fungi porcini

Genovese style crepe served with sautéed porcini mushrooms

Semolina flour 35%

OO flour 65%

Water (enough to make a crepe batter/thin pancake batter)

2 Tbls extra virgin olive oil

mix thoroughly in blender

Use 8” to 10” non-stick, oven safe pan.

Heat pan on stove top till very hot.

Pour batter into middle of pan, swirl around to create a thin crepe. It will be holey.

Once it begins to brown, finish in oven.

Crepes may be made in advance, just cover and refrigerate. To reheat, cut crepes into rustic shapes, 6 to 8 pieces per crepe, warm again by dipping in boiling salted water for a few seconds, do not try to re-warm with a dry heat.

fresh porcinis (if not available chantrelles work well also) thinly sliced approx. 4C

porcini powder 1 to 2 Tbls

whole garlic cloves 2 to 3

salt pinch

extra virgin olive oil

white wine approx.1 C

pepper

parsley  approx. 4 Tbls 

butter

parmesan cheese

In a sauté pan warm olive oil and garlic cloves.

Add mushrooms.

After mushrooms cook about halfway, add white wine, finely chopped parsley and porcini powder.

Remove garlic.

Warm sauté pan with olive oil and a bit of butter.

Drop rustic cut crepes to warm, sprinkle with parmesan cheese

To plate:

Place a couple pieces of crepe in bowl, add mushroom mixture on top.

Next week: Secondo Piatto and Dessert

Cannoli with pistachio mascarpone

These Pistachio cannoli are fabulous! Very impressive looking and not hard to make. Don’t be afraid to get creative with the filling, just substitute the pistachio paste for another flavor. I love a walnut filling with ends dipped in chocolate shavings or vanilla hazelnut.

As you get invited to holiday parties, keep these in mind. You can make the shells in advance, cool, wrap really well and freeze. To thaw, unwrap and lay out on paper towel (prevents condensation and helps to keep crisp), once thawed seal in airtight container till ready to be used. Your treat will be the hit of the party!

Cannoli croccanti con mascarpone e pistachio

Cannoli with pistachio mascarpone

For the cannoli shells:

Forms - copper piping works well 1 inch diameter approximately 5 inches long

Flour double oo (fine) 600 grams / 1.32 #

Sugar 100 grams / 3.52 oz

Butter 100 grams / 3.52 oz @ room temperature

White wine 15 ml / 1 Tbls

Marsala sweet wine 15 ml / 1 Tbls

Lemon rind of two lemons microplained

Mix ingredients together; soft cookie dough consistency. Do not over mix. Cover and put in refrigerator for at least one hour to allow dough to “relax”.

For the filling:

Marscapone 1 kilo / 2.2 #

Confectioners sugar 100 gr / 3.52 oz

Pistachio paste 200 gr / 7.05 oz (available in specialty stores, ice cream ingredient or make your own by pureeing till paste)

Whipping cream 200 gr / 7.05 oz

Gelatin leaves 4 - soak in water

Mix;

Marscapone, sugar, pistachio paste and whipping cream (reserve approximately ¼ cup). Once all ingredients are well mixed together take gelatin leaves out of water, squeeze excess water out, warm reserved cream in sauce pot add gelatin leaves till dissolved, then mix into filling.

You can add nuts, dried fruit etc.. to mix if you desire.

To make the cannoli shells using a pasta machine, work the dough through the machine till it is on number one.  Lay out on a lightly floured surface cut out rectangles that leave approximately ½ an inch on each end of form and just overlap by approximately a ¼ inch seal with an egg wash.

Cook in an oil with a high smoke point - peanut or lard (the best). Cook till golden brown. Remove from oil place on paper towel lined sheet tray and slide off of forms.

To assemble:

Fill a wide tipped pastry bag with filling. Pipe into cannoli shell from each end.

Set on sheet tray, dust with confectioners sugar

To plate: place red raspberries on plate 3, put a cannoli in center of plate   

Multi-Layer Chocolate Cake

Do you have some extra time on your hands? If you spend it making this cake you will not be sorry. Now the question, how many layers can you make? 12, 14, 16? To make the process a bit easier, gather at least 6 9-inch cake pans. 

This is a sweet dessert so one cake serves 15 to 20. Good luck and have fun!

Chocolate layer cake

1 ¾ C butter (3 ½ sticks), 1 C @ room temperature

5 oz (5 squares) unsweetened chocolate melted

7 C sugar

2 ¼ C (18 oz) evaporated milk

3 tsp vanilla extract

1 Tbls instant French roast coffee granules

6 large eggs, room temperature

2 C plus 1 Tbls milk

4 C self-rising flour

Non-stick baking spray

Make the cake glaze first.  In a large saucepan, melt ¾ C of the butter and mix it with the melted chocolate and 4 ½ C of the sugar.
Stir in the evaporated milk, 2 tsp of the vanilla, and the instant coffee.
Cook the glaze over medium-high heat until it boils.
Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, about 20 minutes. Remove the glaze from the heat.
When cooled a bit, return to low heat as needed, as the glaze must be warm to spread on the cake layers.

Preheat the oven to 350º. Spray using non-stick baking spray or grease and flour at least four 9-inch cake pans.
Cream the remaining 1 C butter and remaining 2 ½ C sugar until smooth.
Add the eggs, one at a time, beating after each addition just until blended.
Mix the remaining 1 tsp vanilla with the milk (2 C plus 1Tbls) and add alternately with the flour, beginning and ending with flour.

Put a very thin layer of batter -about 7 Tbls- in each pan, shaking the pans to distribute the batter to the edges.
Bake the layers for 11 to 13 minutes.
Remove the layers from the pans and frost (a combination of drizzle and lightly spreading works) immediately with the warm icing. Continue baking layers with remaining batter at least twelve!

Hopefully this will become a family favorite.

Savoring Late Summer's Tomato Bounty

Well they are finally here. After wind storms, drought, extreme heat, and even a little plague, the extremely desirable ripe-off-the-vine garden tomato is ready for the picking.
So how does one enjoy these beauties? Well, if you don’t eat them right of the plant standing in your garden, there is a multitude of ways to enjoy this summer harvest. Here are a few of my favorite summer tomato recipes:

Caprese Salad
(Figure 3 to 4 slices of tomato per person)
Fresh tomato
Fresh basil
*Balsamic vinegar
Fresh mozzarella (buffalo is best)
Sea salt

Slice your tomatoes and mozzarella about ¼ inch thick.
Layer tomato slices, mozzarella then basil drizzle balsamic over them.
I like to serve the salt on the side
*You can buy a really expensive balsamic or reduce down a decent one to make it thicker and concentrate the flavors. Simply put 4 cups in a sauce pot on medium high heat. Cook until it is reduced down to 1 to 2 cups depending upon how thick you like it. If you like a sweeter balsamic add a little sugar or better yet some honey as it reduces.

Tomato Tarte
Puff pastry (one 17.3 oz package thawed or feel free to make if you have the time)
Fresh tomato
Parmesan cheese
Egg (beaten)
Fresh mozzarella
Fresh basil
Olive oil

Preheat oven to 400º.
Lay out one sheet of pastry, brush with egg wash.
Cut other pastry into thirds, attach one section to end of pastry sheet, brush with egg wash.
Cut remaining 2 sections length wise into 1-inch strips, lay them along edges of long pastry sheet creating a crust, brush with egg wash and then sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.
Bake in oven till golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes.
(This step may be done 2 to 3 days in advanced then wrapped tightly and stored till needed.)
Reduce heat to 325º

Take sliced tomatoes and lay them on the cooked tarte, then layer sliced fresh mozzarella drizzle olive oil put in the oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes till mozzarella is melted before slicing tear basil and drop all over the tarte, serve warm or at room temperature.

Another twist on fish - Shredded Sweet Potato Crust

Fry it, broil it, encrust it, sauce it up - the possibilities for fish are endless.
A couple basic rules for any fish dish:

1) When buying fresh fish, DO NOT be afraid to ask to smell the fish, if it smells “fishy” it is.  Look for clear eyes (when available) not slimy, mushy, dried up.  Now a days many fish are being frozen with great results. Please try to be aware of “over fished” and "at risk" fish when making your  purchase. There is generally a good substitute available with less moral baggage.

2) Breading station requires 3 pans: pan 1) flour (wheat, white, rice)  pan 2) liquid (egg mixture, milk, juice) pan 3) topping (bread crumbs, nuts, fruit) 

3) Play with your food and don’t be afraid to change up the way things are cooked, I will often give a healthy method of cooking (variation on the original) for the recipe.

This full flavored topping is good on many types of fish. Because of the strong flavors of the topping, a stronger, oilier fish can even be used.

Sweet Potato Encrusted White Fish

Fish

Any white fish  - cod or orange roughy (4 oz to 6 oz filets)

Topping 

½ cup peeled and shredded sweet potato per piece of fish

per ½ cup sweet potato:

pinch cumin

pinch tumeric

lemon curd jam (if you can not find raspberry, blackberry, orange jams/marmalades may be substituted)

1/3 egg whisked (approx, binding agent)

Mix; potato, cumin, tumeric, jam and egg together, form into balls which will then be flattened on top of fish

Heat a nonstick sauté pan on high heat with a little bit of olive oil in it

Salt and pepper your fish filets

Press the balls down on to each filet

Carefully lay the filet in the pan topping side down and reduce heat to medium. 

The topping should get a nice crisp crunch to it and cook through approximately 5 minutes. 

Using a spatula carefully slide it under the fish and topping flipping the fish over to finish cooking. For extra thick pieces of fish you may want to finish in a hot oven (approx. 450°)

If have been known to substitute fresh fruit (lemon, orange, lime) segments with a pinch of flour instead of the jam to cut down on the sugar.

In this photo we've served the fish with sauteéd beet greens. I also love it with steamed cauliflower  tossed with some finely chopped mint.

Coconut encrusted fish

This recipe could actually be entitled, coconut encrusted fish, chicken or shrimp. No matter how I make it, my 6-year old nephew goobles it up.

For the topping I will use ratios since the amounts will vary depending upon the protein you use. 

Set up a breading station:

Pan 1 - flour

Pan 2 - egg, cayenne pepper (optional)

Pan 3 - 1 part toasted coconut (unsweetened if available)

            1 part panko bread crumbs

            1 part toasted pecans (optional)

            mix together well

Preheat oven to 425°.

Put a cooling rack on a cookie sheet.

Bread your protein, dust with the flour, dip in the egg then coat with the topping (pan 3).

Spray with a “Pam” style cooking spray (I like the canola brand or olive oil brand from Trader Joes).

Place protein on the cooling rack, or you can get cooking misters in which you put your own olive oil.  Place cookie sheet in oven and bake for 6 to 8 minutes. Remove, turn protein over, spray the second side, return to oven and cook till finished.

Sauce

2 Tbls orange marmalade

1 Tbls stone ground mustard

½ Tbls horseradish

orange juice to thin

Combine first three ingredients in a small sauce pan over medium heat, whisk until mixed together.  Remove from heat, thin with orange juice, if desired. As it cools it may thicken more and you may want to add orange juice then.

Serve and enjoy.

Dad's Bacon Stuffed Fish

My Dad is a bacon lover. So when he asked for a fish recipe, this one came to mind as having natural appeal.

This is best prepared with a firm thick* white fish like halibut, sea bass or cod as we will be making a pocket inside the fish. (*If you can not find a piece of fish thick enough to make a pocket, you can use to thin filets and put the stuffing in between.)

Per each piece of fish

1 heaping Tbls of cooked and finely chopped bacon plus ½ Tbls–reserve some of the fat from cooking (yes Dad you can add more)

1 Tbls finely chopped chives–I really like garlic chives

½ clove garlic finely chopped and lightly sautéed (till just golden)

1½  Tbls pecorino cheese

Mix together;

1 heaping Tbls bacon

1 Tbls chives

½ clove garlic

1 ½ Tbls pecorino shredded

Using a sharp knife make a pocket in the side of the fish filet and stuff the mixture inside pinch the edge back together lightly salt and pepper outside

 

Heat a sauté pan over medium high heat with a little of the reserved bacon grease. Carefully lay fish filets in pan, cook till golden brown, flip over, reduce heat to medium and continue to cook till done. Remove fish from pan set aside, increase heat to medium high, and deglaze pan with a dry white wine, reduce down add remaining bacon then pour over fish.

Healthy version; substitute turkey bacon, cook in light olive oil  

Rich toasted nuts add pizzaz to mild fish

When spring starts getting busy, we don’t want to spend hours in the kitchen. But we still want to eat delicious things. The beauty of this recipe is its simplicity.

Just about any kind of fish will do. I do like one that is a little less oily for this recipe like cod or snapper. A variety of nuts can be used, but I really like the flavor of toasted pecans.


For each piece of fish (4 to 6 oz)
2 Tbls of chopped toasted pecans
½ Tbls mayonnaise (binding agent – egg can be used or you may grind ½ pecans in to paste and mix)
½ Tbls butter
pinch S & P

Warm a sauté pan (with lid) on medium high heat add a little olive oil.

Lay fish in pan “nice” side down, cook till golden brown, turn over and lay topping on fish.

Cover and finish cooking fish, remove fish from pan, turn heat up drop in butter and swirl around pan, cook until it begins to foam, just turning brown.

Pour over fish, if you wish you could use a white wine instead of the butter for a “less” fat version. This dish can be a little rich so I like to serve it with steamed vegetables and a nice Jasmin rice.

A modern twist on an Italian classic–Stuffed Gnocchi

The cold weather seems to be holding and this dish from my Arte Italia demo is perfect.  It may become your family’s new comfort food.  We had a variation of these on Super Bowl Sunday, paired with a tomato sauce instead of the eggplant puree.  I love the eggplant puree as a dip for veggies and bread it holds up well (5 days) in the refrigerator, but I do like to serve it a little warm or at room temperature.

Thinking out loud here but I may have to try a sweet version of these, with perhaps a nut, chocolate and mascarpone stuffing served with a berry sauce!

Gnocchi di patate ripieni di caponatina fondente

“Stuffed Gnocchi” makes approximately 75 stuffed gnocchi

For the gnocchi dough you will need;

1 ½ kilo’s / 3.33 cooked potatoes*

600gr / 1.32 # flour

120gr / 4.23 oz parmesan

3 eggs (or 2 eggs for each kilo of potato)

nutmeg

*Yukon gold potatoes, or simular type, older the better, cook in boiling water with skins on, cook till cooked all the way through, remove from water, as soon as you can handle, peel and then “puree” put through a ricer best to do while a little warm

To mix dough;

Spread potaoes out on lightly floured surface

Layer flour, parmesan and eggs on top

Mix together till just combined (do this by hand, mixers work the starch too much best to do while still a little warm)

Divide dough into softball size balls

Roll dough out onto lightly floured surface approximately ½ cm / ¼ inch thick

Cut into round shapes approx 5 cm / 2 inch width

Eggplant and ginger sauce

Roast eggplant (approx 6) smaller size (prevents them from getting to dark while roasting and less seeds) lightly coat with olive oil, roast in 200° oven till cooked all the way through and “meat” is done. Remove from oven, slice in half using a spoon scoop out the inside “meat” and put into a blender.

Skin ginger, using a micro planner grate ginger into chinois (fine sieve) hold ginger over blender and pour approximately ¼ cup water through lightly press down to squeeze essence of ginger into blender

Add a couple pinches of salt

Turn on blender

Slowly drizzle olive oil into eggplant and ginger to emulsify approximately ½ cup

Set aside in a sauce pot (will warm up before plating)

Caponatina / Stuffing (time to practice your knife skills)

Make while potatoes are cooking

All cut brunoise 1/8 x 1/8 x 1/8 inch (approximate amounts)

1 cup shallots

1 ½ cups zucchini - just the peel

1 cup celery – remove “ribs”

1 ½ cups red pepper – peeled, then lay flat and remove inner rib

1 ½ cups eggplant – use just the skin and one layer in if still firm and no seeds

½ cup dried tomatoes

1/3 cup finely chopped pinenuts

1 ½ cup ricotta

¾ cup parmesan cheese

to cook caponatina / stuffing

heat a large sauté pan with oil and garlic flavored oil (hot)

(add in order)

1. shallots and 2 to 3 Tbls sugar stir cook till it starts to thicken a little

2. redwine or sherry vinegar 3 to 4 Tbls  cook till reduced

3. add celery stir cook about one minute

4. add red pepper stir

5. add eggplant stir

6. add pine nuts stir

7. add zucchini stir

8. add dried tomatoes stir

Remove from heat put into bowl, add ricotta and parmesan cheese mix together put into refrigerator to cool down

Whisk a couple of eggs together

Take potato circle and using your finger put a little egg wash on half the circles edge, put approximately 1 mounded tsp of filling on each round.  Fold over pushing filling in and seal edge. Set down on floured surface seam down tuck edges in at ends.

To cook gnocchi;

Drop into salted boiling water till they float then transfer to a warm sauté pan with butter and vegetable stock cook for approximately 3 to 4 minutes sprinkle chopped parsley on top and drizzle garlic oil and a spicy oil on top

To Plate:

Tear drop tomatoes halved and lightly sauted with olive oil salt and pepper

Eggplant ginger sauce

Gnocchi

Put a smear of eggplant sauce on plate, sprinkle tomatoes around sauce, plate 2 gnocchi per plate for an appetizer, 5 to 6 for a main course.

Arte Italia Part II - Pesce cotto al sale con pappa al pomodoro

Well I flipped a coin and decided this week's recipe from the Arte Italia cooking class with Chef Apreda will be the Sea Bass in Pomodoro Sauce. The cooking method for the fish is unique; stove top, salt and herbs, skindown–creates a moist wonderfully flavorful fish. The sauce was great with the fish, but could go with chicken, veal or even pasta. I hope you enjoy this dish as much as I did and feel free to use other types of fish too.

(Sorry for the poor picture quality. It was a fast paced class and I grabbed them in between prep duties with my cell phone!)

Pesce cotto al sale con pappa al pomodoro
(Herb and sea salt cooked sea bass with tomato sauce)

Tomato sauce
Approximately 4 quarts tomato puree
Leeks fine chop approximately 3 cups
Dried bread / bread crusts approximately 3 cups
salt
Garlic oil
Olive oil
Fresh basil

In a large sauce pot heat olive oil and garlic oil (approximately ¼ cup of each) add leeks and sauté till translucent, add tomato puree and a generous amount of salt, bring to a boil and then lower to a simmer for approximately 2 ½ hours. Remove from heat and stir in dried bread, let sit for approximately 10 minutes. Using a wand blend bread into sauce, then hand stir in chiffonade of fresh basil approximately ¼ cup.

Sea Bass filets skin on
Coarse sea salt
Fresh: rosemary sprigs, sage, thyme, bay leaves, garlic slices
Large sauté pan

Mix the salt and herbs together in the pan generously covering the bottom about 1 ½ inches deep, heat on the stove till hot (do not let the salt brown) lay the sea bass filets on top of salt skin side down, cook for approximately ½ an hour to ¾ of an hour. Fish will still be moist but cooked through.

To plate:
Scoop a generous portion of tomato sauce into center of plate remove sea bass filet from pan gently scrape off salt, using your finger. Place skin side up on sauce.

Slow Food makes for fast friends

The holiday gifts just keep giving. The latest in the form of lovingly prepared and savored food. My sister Paige and I have been talking about Slow Food for quite a while now, but we were a little slow to actually join. Conveniently, and under our direct guidance, our mother got us memberships this past holiday season.

Slow Food is an international movement with 100,000 members in 132 counties including one in our fair city of Reno. According to their website, Slow Food was founded in 1989 to “counteract fast food and fast life, the disappearance of local food traditions and people’s dwindling interest in the food they eat, where it comes from, how it tastes and how our food choices affect the rest of the world.” The mission of Slow Food Reno is to create a culture where the Great Basin Community promotes and advocates wholesome, clean and flavorful food.

We went to our first Slow Food Reno event on January 18–a potluck held at Buckbean Brewery. I must admit I wasn’t sure what to expect. Who would be there? Would I fit in? I had some preconceived ideas–everyone would be vegan and living in a yurt. Or at the very least vegetarian with a well-cultivated acre behind their house and, if you know me or have been following my blog, you know that I like (probably wouldn’t hurt to say love) meat and dairy. One look at the group that had gathered and the dishes they brought and I rejoiced. It was a wonderful eclectic gathering of people.

One of the topics I knew was going to be discussed was raising backyard chickens. So with that in mind I got some eggs from my friend Mike who raise chickens with her husband. They have a variety of breeds that produce beautiful eggs in various hues of green, blue, brown and speckled. 

Their beauty created a dilemma for me. I wanted to use both the eggs and the shells somehow. I knew it was possible to use an eggshell as a “container”. I have in the past cut the tops tipped the egg out boiled the shell to clean and then used it for cold salads even a shot glass once. But I wanted to experiment and see if I could cook in the shells. I took my favorite crème brulée recipe, filled the shells, used a cardboard egg carton in a pan with a water bath, baked and then once cooled, caramelized the tops. All went as planned, although I did learn to make a nest out of aluminum foil to hold the egg when caramelizing the sugar with a torch as the cardboard is quite flammable!

The eggshell may burn a little, but it just adds some color dimension if you want to make them really fancy dust the edges with edible gold or silver powder (can be found at bakery supply stores). The second “eggsperiment” I did was a black truffle egg custard, this was almost the last of the truffles I brought back from a spring trip to France– so sad to see them gone, but so divine in the going. The eggs seemed to be a big hit with the people at my table. The best feed back I go was that is was so RICH, it is best to only fill your eggshells a little over half full. Keep this in mind if you follow the recipes below.

Before I sign off I wanted to let you know Dan and Doug out at Buckbean Brewery have a great set up with some really awesome beers, many of which are available around town at various grocery stores and restaurants. It is worth the trip to go out to the brewery and see how your beer is made and who is making it. Buckbean is also very active in our community. If you are a food lover, come to the next Slow Food Reno potluck, you don’t have to be a member to come to the potlucks, but I am pretty sure you’ll want to join afterwards.

Black Truffle Egg Custard

Preheat oven to 275°

12 servings

12 empty eggshells – you can use an egg topper to cut off the tops over a sharp serrated knife (if using a knife I recommend setting the egg on its side on a wet towel)

Save contents of three of the eggs for recipe (other nine refrigerate for another use)

1 C milk

1 C heavy cream

1 ½ to 2 ¼ TBLS truffle oil

salt and pepper

Garnish: fresh chives, shaved black truffle

1. Heat the milk and cream together in a saucepan till it boils immediately remove from heat and pour into a blender (or food processor) and turn on.  Drizzle truffle oil in then add the three eggs a pinch of salt and pepper blend until well combined.

2. Strain the mixture through a chinois (a very fine mesh strainer) into a pitcher.  Let sit and skim off foam that rises to the top (about 5 to 10 minutes).  Pour the mixture into the eggshells (1/2 full).  Prop them up in a cardboard egg carton in a baking dish.  Fill the dish up to halfway up the outside of the eggshells with hot water (this makes a Bain Marie).  Cover the pan with a lid and bake for 40 to 45 minutes (I didn’t have a pan with a lid large enough to do all the eggs I wanted too so I just sealed it with aluminum foil and it worked fine)

3. Garnish with chive and black truffle, serve warm or at room temperature.

More of those Italian recipes from my class at Arte Italia coming soon.

                  

Mangi bene!

I just got to enjoy one of my holiday gifts–a culinary class with award winning Executive Chef Francesco Apreda of the Hotel Hassler in Rome, Italy. The class was offered through Arte Italia a wonderful local organization that promotes the exploration and conservation of Italian culture through classes and exhibits. I am in love with the visiting chefs culinary class concept (and pretty fond of Chef Apreda). And, as an added bonus, Arte Italia donates   all class fees to St. Vincent’s Dining Room.

The class began with Chef Apreda and Reno’s own Ivano Centemeri, celebrated chef from La Strada, serving us “students” risotto balls made with saffron and Taleggio. These delightful arancini have always been one of my favorites and the other guests at my table went crazy for them.  Since the chefs started us off with these and did not demonstrate their recipe I will share with you mine since I know my classmates are waiting for it.

Over the next few weeks I will also share some of the other dishes Chef Apreda made for us, I am sure you will enjoy them as much we all did.

These are a little time consuming to make but well worth it.  Many people are intimidated by risotto and really should not be, the technique is simple and really just requires you to keep your eye on it.  For this dish I like my risotto to be a little moist but still al dente, just follow the directions and don’t be afraid to taste as you go.

Taleggio Arancini 
Step one is to make the saffron risotto and then cool it down;

About 5 cups chicken stock

Pinch of saffron

¼ cup finely minced onion or shallots

3 Tbls olive oil

1 ½ cups Arborio rice

¼ cup dry Marsala or dry white wine

1/3 cup parmesan cheese

2 Tbls butter

salt

pepper

In a medium saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer. Crumble in the saffron and keep over a moderately low heat with a ladle in it.

In a large saucepan (heavy bottomed is preferable) heat the olive oil over a medium high heat.  Add the onions/shallots and stir till translucent about two minutes.

Add the rice and stir with a rubber spatula until the rice is well coated with the oil and slightly translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the Marsala/wine stirring constantly, until it is absorbed 1 to 2 minutes.

Add the warm saffron stock in ½ cup increments stirring constantly, until the stock has been completely absorbed.  The stock should bubble gently when added; adjust heat as needed.  Continue cooking the rice adding ½ cup at a time stirring till absorbed before adding another ½ cup.  Near the end you may want to cut back to ¼ cup increments.  Cook until the rice is tender but firm to the bite and the mixture is creamy not soupy, 20 to 30 minutes. (You may not need all the stock, or you may need more.)

Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the Parmesan and butter season with salt and pepper. Lay out on a lightly oiled sheet tray, refrigerate to cool down.

Step two is to make the balls;

The cooked and cooled risotto (does not have to be cold but not to warm or it won’t hold its shape)

Taleggio (you can use any cheese which melts easily but Taleggio is wonderful in taste and texture)

Once cooled down make a golf ball size in the palm of your hand, use your thumb to make an indentation in the center insert a small cube of Taleggio, then seal the risotto over the top to make a ball again.

Once you have used all the risotto refrigerate the balls for ½ an hour (this just makes it easier to bread them)

Step three is to bread the balls and then deep-fry them;

Set up a classic three stage breading station;

Pan 1 flour

Pan 2 whisked egg with a pinch of salt and pepper

Pan 3 finely ground breadcrumbs

Once you have breaded all the balls you may deep-fry them till golden brown or you may refrigerate them for a couple of hours or days.  If you do wait to deep fry them bring them back to room temperature before frying, otherwise they may be done on the outside and not warm in the center, if this is occurring you may finish in the oven to heat all the way through.

These are wonderful on their own, but you may want to serve with a spicy tomato sauce for dipping.  Also don’t feel limited to stuffing the balls with cheese, you can use a lamb mixture or sausage or a mushroom ragout. Get creative and try not to eat them all before you serve them to your guests.

Meringue in the New Year!

One of my guests requested this recipe, so here it is. I recently served some meringue baskets with fresh whipped cream and berries.  It is a great light dessert, looks elegant and is very easy to make, with many variations.  I love sharing recipes as I believe good food is meant to be shared. So, if I can’t prepare something delicious you, I am happy to share the recipe.

Preheat oven to 225°

2/3 C powdered sugar

1/2 C egg whites approximately 4 eggs (room temperature)

1/3 C granulated sugar

Using a very clean bowl and utensils mix egg whites on low until frothy, add 2 T granulated sugar and whip till soft peaks form.  With mixer on low, add sifted powdered sugar and remaining granulated sugar.  Increase speed to medium/medium high, whip until stiff glossy peaks.

At this stage on a parchment lined sheet tray you can:

Put into a bag and pipe into disks or baskets

Drop by spoonfuls “dollop cookies”

Drop by spoonfuls and hollow out to make “nests”

Cook in oven for 60 to 80 minutes, will be dried out and crisp no color. Shut off oven and leave meringues in to cool down and dry out (2 plus hours). Store in an airtight container (can be stored for days before filling).

These are best made on a dry day.

 There are many ways to finish:

You may dip in chocolate

You may fill the basket with fresh whipping cream (heavy whipping cream, vanilla, powdered sugar and granulated sugar whipped to stiff peaks-sugar to taste) and berries assemble no more than 3 hours before being served

Layer discs to make individual napoleons or large discs for a cake; layer with berries/fruit and fresh whipping cream or pastry cream and berries/fruit

If you brush the meringues with tempered chocolate it will help to make a seal between the meringue and fillings allowing the dessert to be assembled earlier without fear of becoming soggy.